Author 



S.E 

.Z.%1 



Title 



Imprint. 



16— -4737a-2 <B»>0 



SCIENCE 



OF 



HORSE TRAINING, 



o o N r A I N I N a 



THE HTSTOin' OF TWENTY YEA]RS' EXPERI- 
ENCE IN Tl?AJNliN(i HORSES AND RIJEAK- 
1N(4 COl/rS: ALSO HINTS ON BRKAKING 
STEERS,.MANY VALl ABEE RECIPES, 
&(:., ' &(:., &('., &C. 



By FIlANlv DONALD. 



P.EKLIN, WIS.: 

TRUKV & AKNOl/n, P1UNTEU9. 
1870. '* ' • 



INTRODUCTION. 



Many learned and elaborate works have been written 
upon Iiorses, their breaking, driving and general man- 
agement ; and also on their diseases and enres. Some 
parts of these many works are very good, while others 
are of no benefit whatever to the praetitioner, or to those 
who do not make it a business to break horses, but 
yet break their own. On account of the great supply 
of horse-doctoring books before the public, I have 
made it no point to write anything on the diseases and 
cures of horses, although I have inserted a few recipes 
such as I can recommend, and know to be good, by dai- 
ly use of them. But I wissh to introduce to the 
people, and especially the farmers, a work descriptive 
of a new system of colt ))reaking and horse taming; a 
work which will be a benefit alike to the learned and 
unlearned, and one wdiich has cost me much time and 
labor for the last twenty years ; and I trust I have 
brought to light a system as near perfect, in a j^raetical 
point of view, for handling colts and horses with ease 
and safety, as any yet offered to horse owners. I have 
castrated and broke horses and colts in almost every 
county in this State, and if my employers, and friends 
tell me the truth, I have always given entire satis- 
faction, and they acknowledge that my system 



INTRODUCTION. 

is the system by which to break aiuJ train colts. My 
castriiting like my training, always speaks for itself. 
In a phi( e where I can get one job I can always get 
more another season. 

Hoping my new system will meet tlie approbation of 
farmers and horse; rais(>rs, to such \ cheerfully <le(li(;ate 
and freely recouimend my little book ; and hoping every 
peruser of it who has never given me the benetit of a 
trial, will do so at their earliest convenience and prove 
for themselves that I am no humbug. 

FRANK DONALD. 

Bbrlin, Wis. 



SCIENt^E OF HORSE TRAINING. 



In this ago of progression and iuiprovomont, why do 
men and boys persist in followi.:g th;it common and 
harsli method of iiandling coltsV It is booausc they do 
not know nor seem to care to learn a better one. There 
are a great variety of nvethods practiced by different 
men, and professed foUowers of Itarey, yet few, if any, 
are ever successfnl in anything except teacliing others 
what tliey tliemselves can not do. I cltiim to have found 
the true scicret of horse training. After twenty years 
of ])ractical experience, liavi..g handled n(;arly thrive 
thousand horses, 1 have learned that all the systems 
which have been tauglit by traveling trainers who have 
infested the country for the past few years, iiave been 
failures so far as they have pretended to learn all per- 
sons to be horses tamers, jxnd that they themselves have 
failed in bringing a really unmanagable horse or colt to 
a perfect state of subjection or usefulness. There are 
but few persons who hav(! the nerve to go into a small 
enclosure with a wild or vicious colt. It is much easi 
er to have the animul brought to them to a tent or barn 
than to catch it and lead it there, which but few of our 
professional horse tamers ever attempt to do. J. S. 
liarey has given the easiest method of getting a colt in- 
to an enclosure, iu his book pamphlet on "Horse Tam- 
ing," pages 7-8; few, however, have the patience, to 



8 SCIEXCE OF nORSE TRAINING. 

catch and baiter it wben there. In going near an un- 
tamed colt to halter it, you are in danger of being in- 
jured in various ways. In the first place, your colt has 
never been conquered and will make every endeavor to 
get away, or in its fright show light, and drive you 
from the yard or barn as the case may be. If you are 
fortunate enough to get a halter on the beast you may 
not be able to hold it. If it starts from you the ten- 
dency is for it to rear and f;xll over backwards. If you 
try to pull it along, it will l)racc back and pull you 
flongwithit. If you attempt to take up its foot it 
will strike or kick, and you having no means of defease 
are in danger of being hurt. You have no way of siib- 
diiiug the colt without runniiig a great risk of injury 
being done both to yourself and the colt. .All trainers 
say you must throw the colt to subdue it and they teach 
various ways to do this, but do not tell how the person 
who has the work of catching, su))daing and educating 
can do it witliout danger. No way lias been tauglit to 
make the colt follow you witliout tlic use of a whip or 
by jerking the under jaw with a small cord — methods 
very harsh and cruel and wdiich have sjjoiled many good 
horses; no way taught of compelling baulky horses to 
go or of curing them of that most vexatious liabit ; no 
way to preventahorse from puUingat thehalteror bridle 
or to make it stand when left alone in the field, or to 
prevent it fnmi kicking the hor.se he stands beside, or 
from carrying its head to one side when in the harness, 
or to stand quiet while being shod, or to keep it irom 
kicking while at wor-k in the harness. The methodi 
wish to introduce to the public is new and safe, it does 
away with the old, brutal style of jerking the animaFs 
mouth by a cord until the blood runs, or of throwing 
it dovyn, which treatment it does not understand and 
can not be made to understand. 

If you wanted your child to perform some service 
with which he was unacquainted, because he did not do 
it immediately at your word of command, you would 



SCIKNCK or HOKSK TK.MNINO. 5 

Wdt xise harsh and unseemly means to make him do it^ 
but you would sU')w hini how or give; liim sueh instruc- 
tions us would eiialile him to fully understand, what you 
ro((uire, I think it no more than fair tliat wc should 
•ijive the (iunib Itea^ts an equally goo(3 ehunco to learn 
what you want them to do. When this is done we 
shall have fewer maimed liorses, and horses with hrok- 
on legs, from cruel punishment iufli<:tetl for disobedi- 
ence in(5uced by the horse not comprehending what is 
wanted of him. The horse is a very obedi(;nt animal 
if by proper treatment it is made to understancf what is 
wanted of it. It is a good idea to make the horse un- 
derstand that you mean what you say, and must he 
obeyed. Better to take half an hour to make your liorse 
understand a command than to h't him go without un- 
derstanding it. The instinct of the horse is what rea- 
son is to man. We reason fr(mi cjiuse and effect, and it 
is much the sanu' with the horse. If we .say "whoa," 
to the liorse and hav(! the power to make him stop and 
stand still, he will soon learn that "whoa," means .stop, 
and stand still. If you hurt him in .stoppir.g it will 
make him out of temper and hi- will not oi)ey you 
reailily or with good gr.ice. A horse will also soon learn 
when you are out (d' temper by the .sound of your voice. 
How (iocs he learn thisv almost invariably in this way; 
Von speak quicker and in a higher key at the same 
time hurting him (itlier with th(- whip or by severely 
jerking the bits, and whenever he hears that peculiar 
tone of voice he is frightened for he thinks he will be 
hurt, and ho is then entirely incapabb; of understand- 
ing what you want. At all times keep your temper, 
and practice patience and perseverance. My experi- 
ence teaches me that no colt is properly broke unless 
he is thoroughly conquered and not hurt in so doing. 
If you hurt him in subduing, he hates you ; if you ca- 
ress him, when he gives up he will think you are his 
friend still. Ifyoulassoa colt by the neck, which is 
very often done, it will be a long time before he will 



10 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 

iiave ccnfideFiCO in you as lassoiiig produces the most 
unplca?ant fccliigs imnginaMe. If yf>ii hurt his mouth 
he will be tifraid to have it touched, and may pros'e 
very troublesome about mauaglng. 

TO GET A COLT INTO A BARN. 

There are hut few colts but what ca.i be induced to 
go into the barn yird, but this is scarcely ■the place to 
train a colt unless it is very small. I have always found 
the barn floor the niDst suital)le and convenient place to 
handle a colt, but to g(;t him into the l)arn is generally a 
task of no small magnitude, that is, without seriously 
alarming and worrying him. There are several means 
which cm besucccssfnily used, such as driving him i.ito 
the birn in company with one or more old horses or gently 
driving him in alone l)y slowly working toward the 
barn door, letting him take his time to get fimiliar 
with everythiag tint miy appear suspicious or alarm- 
ing to him. Make no movement on your part to alarm 
him, by throwing up the arms, runui ;g to head iiim oif, 
or speaking sharply. If he sh")uld run by you once do 
not make matters worse by trying to st')p him, but let 
him go, and work around him agiin. It is well known 
that the horse is naturally a timid a liniil, aud tryi ig to 
force him into the birn will excite his fears and make 
him think it necessary to eseape at all hazards for the 
safety of his life. In one instance I had a colt which 
no amount of coaxing or driviiig could get into the barn ; 
80 I had both doors thrown wide open, and placed a man 
at the o])posite door out of sight of the colt. The colt 
seeing a chance to get away from me made a dash 
to go through the barn, but as soon as he was inside we 
suddenly closed both doors and we had our colt. 

FIRST PROCESS OF BREAKING COLTS. 

Let the barn be clear from all obstructions. After 
the colt is in the barn let him alone a few moments, to 
allow him to examine the floor and all unfamiliar ob- 
jects ; then go in with a bow whip or switch aad walk 



SCTEXCE OF nonSE TRAINING. 11 

nronrul ;i few iii'-nicntH after the colt, or until lie be- 
coiucs quiet. iS'ow take a half-inch rcipe aljout thirty 
feet long, tie a ring in the end of it for the rope to run 
througlj to fm-ui a noose. • Place the nooKC in the cor- 
ner of the Ijarii far enough back for the colt to stand 
his lij't fore j'ito:. inside it. By driving him around a few 
times he can be mad(! to step inside it. If possible, ap- 
proach within ten or fifteen feet of th( colt and jerk the 
rope so as to ciitch the loop around his leg Ijelow the 
knee. Ashe f-els. then'opo tig'iten he will jump and 
[).-ob:t!)ly re:ir and kick. i)o not try to hold any tight- 
.er than to keep the r;ipe from slipping until the colt 
finds tint he can not get ;i\v;iy from it.. Kee|) as near be- 
hind liiui as possit)le, as lie can not strain himself in the 
least when you are pulling from Ijehind, or in front. 
You need not speak until (he colt gives tip, for the less 
noise the belter As soon, after the colt is caught, as he 
will stand still enough i'or you to move back and forth, 
step arountl l)ehind liim and draw the rope around his 
hind legs abf)ve the gambrels and tighten it. If he 
attempts to jumi), speak gently to him saying, "whoa," 
and li>!d him, as you iiave the power to do .so. Now 
start iiim forward and when he has taken a few steps 
say, "whoa," and pull the rope up enough so tiiat he can 
not take a step. Win n he finds he can not go make hiin 
step one iiind foot over the rope keeping it still around 
the hind leg on the same side as the fore leg to which 
the rope is attatched. Walk around toward his head 
very quietly and keeping the rope tight above the gam- 
brel. Caress him gently, rub him on the fore shoulder 
and down tlie f)re l;g, along the side, and down the hi:. d 
leg. He can n')t ki(;k or str.k- unless he jumps. When 
you have him sufficiently usid to your movements about 
him, put on tlie "guard." 1 do n(;t think a horse is 
properly broke without the use of tliis. The guard is 
a strap one inch and a half in width with a ring in it, 
the strap being long enough to go around the horse's 
leg. Buckle onearoundthe forelecr above the knee, and 



12 gOIEWCK or ilOKSK TKAINING. 

one on tbe bind leg below tbo gambrel. Pass a thmf 
quarter rope or strap through the ring on the fore itvg 
from tbe front side and fasten it to tbu strap on the fund 
leg. Tbe rope should Ix; about fourteen feet long. 
Turn tbe rope around fron\ tbe under side so as to form 
a kink in tbe rope behind tbe ring on tine fore leg and. 
keep a firm bold on tlie end of the rope. Thus you have 
tbe eolt completely in your po\,ver. As be can not get 
away you ciu\ compel hinii to stand as you please. He 
ean neitlxr go ahead, back, nor sideways. If you draw 
tbe rope tight it draws th(^ hind fodt up to tbe knee and 
learns him to stand to be shod without leaab g upon tbe 
smith as sonu; horses do. You can now take your smalt 
rope off and put the noose oviT tbe coH's neck, and ])ut » 
small stra]) around the under jaw under the tongue and 
through the ring on tbe rope. Place the top of the 
rope back of the crest of tbe neck. You can handle his 
head now at will, and do it very gently. While you 
have this guard on you can accustom him to tbe sigbt 
of buffalo robes, Idankets, etc.,. by bri.iging them be- 
fore him, laying them on bis back, and otherwise show- 
ing him they will not barm liim. If you wish to break 
him to ride, jump upon his back, slide off on bis gam- 
brels, etc., until he submits to be bandied all over and 
stands still. Now put tbe guard on tbe off bind leg, 
fasten tlx; small rope to the nigh fore leg below the 
knee. One end is already on the neck and jaw. the 
guard still remaining •», but long enough to allow the 
colt to take a natural step. Pull lightly on the rope 
that runs to his jaw, and give a smart pull on tbe fore 
leg which will compel the colt to step ahead. You 
have not tbe power to pull the colt along by the bead, 
but you have by the leg by pulling a little sideways. 
A severe pull on the bead will most generally cause the 
colt to rear, but a light ])ull on the head at the time of 
pulling forward tbe foot, will (!stablish the fact with 
the colt that it would be useless for him to 2)ull on a bri- 
dle or halter. When you pull the colt toward you say, 



SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 13 

"Come here," .nui lie will soon Icmn that those words 
mean for him to coum to you. When he comes close 
up, caress him, with a rub ou the head, beneath the 
eyes, etc. If you wish your liorse to follow the crack 
of the whip, cr.ick a whip as you pull him toward you 
until he will come at that .sound alone. Let the colt 
rest often or he will become tired and sullen. 

It might be well to say here that where the colt has 
been used to running into the staljlc, sheds, or other out- 
buildings, drive several in at onceandthen separate l he 
one you wish to catch from the otln'rs. Make him step 
into the noose before mentioned and hold liiin until the 
others can be driven out. If you wi.sh to take him to 
a .other ^tab]e or more convenient place before com- 
mencing work, put a halter on him, and \r-dd another 
horse, harnessed, sideways to the door on the outside, 
which will prevent the colt from making his escape. 
Hitch tiierope on the colt's leg to the hame-ring of the 
harness on the other horse aiul then work the colt along 
toward the horse at the door. When neai- Puough tie 
the halter-stale al.so in the hame-ring leaving the halter 
a little the hmgest so as not to pull the colt's head first. 
Back up the horse and swing him around, thus jjulling 
the colt from the stable. Keep on the op|K)site side id" 
the lior.-;c from the cojt so as not to frighten him and 
you can soon lead him to a safe place for treatment, 
(•are must be taken in handling colts in a low stable to 
prevent them from injuring their heads by rearing 
while you are pulling on the rope. 

TO I>EAltN THE COLT TO STAND. 

Place the colt in a narrow stall, containing a strong 
hitching ring placed three or four feet above the floor. 
Put a good halter on the colt — one you can depend upon 
Run the halter-stale through the ring from the back 
side and down to a strap buckled to the nigh fore leg 
above the knee, leaving tBe stale long enough to allow 
the colt to stand back three feet, and the guard on the 



14 SCIENCE OP UOUSE TRAINING. 

off legs rather sliort, and- then let him pull all he can. 
He can not hurt his h(';ul by pulling us the act lifts o.e 
of his main braces from the floor. The guard prevents 
him from pawing or rearing. Some colts will paw or 
rear when left alone, or will kick the stall, whicii wili 
be prevented by p'utting the guard on both f^ides iilike. 
If necessity com]>els you to stand horses together tliat 
are sharply shod, put a guard on each horse on the in- 
side and it will .save you a maimed horse. If you wish 
to leave y.iur horses in the field, or wish to have tliem 
stand without Ixnng liitchcd, put the guard on the out 
side l(>gs very short and they can not run. Of course 
they will require some watching at fir.st. 

TO LEARN A COI>T TO KEIN. 

This is the most imjjortant pirt of a colt's education. 
No colt is pleasant to rid« or drive unless he follows the 
rein perfectly. There arc but few persons who have 
not .some. little experience in driving horses, and they 
know how their tempers have been tried when trying 
to shun obstructions. They rein one side and the horse's 
head comes around, while the position of the body is 
unchanged. Prompt obedience to the rein should be 
taught the colt from the beginning. J think I can safe- 
ly say that thi-re is not one man in a thousand who un- 
derstands how to learn a c.nlt to rein properly. The 
method commonly practiced is to pass the rein through 
the turrets on the b;ick-pad and to the bit. nnd then try 
to turn the colt l)y pulling one rein or the other, which 
generally gives the impression that you want him to 
back, as it pulls the liit into his mouth. It ahso frets 
the horse and makes his mouth sore. My method of 
teaching a colt to rein is to first show him how. Use a 
good leather bit with large cheek pieces which will not 
draw through the mouth. Fasten the rein into the ring 
of the bit, and arcmnd the^ore leg below the knee on 
the same side. Take the line running to the bit with 
one hand, and the one running to the leg with the oth- 



sciKNCR ov nonsi: 'rn.MNixa. 15 

■or. St(\nd in front and to ono side', say to liira, "Come 
tii-ound," iind pull on each stri'.p ; lift the li g up and 
pull it sidinvajs, pnlling lightly on the rein so iie will 
not turn his lu^ad sid(!way^ as you make him cnn>o 
Jiround. As you turn him kr-o]) stopping further hack 
iiutU you oa ) tt'.rn him by pulling th'e rein against his 
flank. The pull on the l>it should amount to a very 
lightjerk. Aft(!r the colt will turn one way hy merely 
pulling with y-ur thumb a d fi^iger, phiee the rein on 
the other leg und lt^;irn him to t?uru tiie other v\-ay also, 
Pulling the c )lt sideways by the leg shows him how to 
lift uj) his feet to .step around, which can not l>e done in 
any other way. Wiien your cgit. turns readily, tsdce the 
rein from the leg and fastca it to tlic other side of the 
hit. Now stand on the near side at theshoulder; throw 
the off rein over the lilps and aijiive the g unhreU with 
the right hand, keej)ir'g a firm hold on the hit with the 
left hand, to keep him from jun.jpijig ahead when you 
pull on the oft" r( in, as it draws aroui d the flank. You 
should now turn the head fnuu you l)y pidling with a 
firm hand o.; the off rein. Keep turning him around 
until he steps otf-quarely frmu you. Now change sides 
a .d priecied as before. When the colt learns to .step 
sideways with nit turning his head, step away from him 
and tell liim to g). If ]\v. does not move pull him short 
toone side as he steps, giving him the rein loose. If he 
tries to get away turn his head toward you, and as he 
gets part way round you can stop him short by pulling 
the rein furtherest from you arouiul his gatrdjrels, hold- 
ing the other rein tight. By keej)ing the reins below 
the hips when driving him around you can prevent him 
from turning his head around toward j'ou, as he will 
vvhc;! the reins run through the turrets. If you wish 
to turn him to the left, step to the right side and pull 
quickly with the left rein it being down as low as the 
fla ik. By following these .directions you can learn a 
colt to step squarely and promptly to one side. When 
you pull ou the rein, as it learns him to step his fore 



16 SCIENCE OP HOIiSB; TRAINING. 

feet to one side, and his liind feet to the other, you can 
easily turn your liorse around on a space four feet 
square. 

TO UITCH Ul* A COI.T. 

Here is the secret of having a quiet and trusty horse. 
Very often we hear men say, "My colt needs no brenk- 
ing. Tlie hoys can easily hitch him up." It is very 
much like pUu-ing n peison ui)f)n a locomotive who is 
totally nnac(|u;iiiit('d witli it, or never saw one. lie may 
.set it in motion but that is as far as his ability extends; 
he is incajjable and powerless to run it. A horse is 
never thoroughly broke or entirely .safe until he is con- 
quered and learned vvh:it you want of him. The first 
impression a colt gets lasts the longest. Tie should 
never be hitched up with another horse until he has 
been driven alone with the reins, and then plac(Hi in a 
heavy pair of shafts with one end to drag ujion the 
ground, which will prevent him from backing and learn 
him the use of the thills at the same time. 'I'he guard 
should be put on when the colt is first placed in the 
shafts, as it will prevent him from running away or 
kicking, until he g'ts accustomed to the hnrness, shafts 
and otlua- things ai)out him; also, when hitched to any 
thing which frightens him, it prevents his rearing or 
kicking. A horse kicks, rears and frets more from fear 
in the first j)lace, and thenceforth from habit. A horse 
will soon learn to go cpiiet by wearing the guard short 
at first, and longer when you wish him to go faster. I 
will give the reason why .some horses baulk and kick, 
and some fret. First, you make your horst; fret by 
compelling or allowing him to go fast when first iiitch- 
ed up. Often we hear the remark, " When you get the 
colt started, let him go, or he will t)aulk." You get 
your colt started the best you can and then have to use 
the whi]) to keep him moving. The whip frightens the 
colt and he .starts into a trot or run which causes the 
wagon to rattle, or whatever vehicle he may be hitched 



SCIENCE OF HOKSE TRAINING. 17 

to, and he is frightened still more; he commences to 
kick, or fret, and soon your colt is reduced in vsilue or 
spoiled entirely, for a fr(!tting, kicking horse is useless 
to every one, except, perhaps, the jockey. With such 
niiinner of treatniei.t almost any colt will learn to be- 
<-ome vicious, an<l it is almost certain to make Ijaulky 
h'lrses, because you have i)een used to starting them 
qiiick and at a rapid pace, and when hitched before a 
Joad and find they can not start a.s usual, Hy back and 
r<:fuse togi). Soon you have some thing more ob.stinate 
to deal with than a wild colt — a baulky one. 

TO MAKE A HORSE GO. 

1 think there is no record of anyone using anything 
to make a colt go. The Spanish halter, cords, whips, or 
anything which can be put upon a horse's head or neck 
may be used, but they will not comj)el him to move. 
Some jerk the colt along by the under jaw, but he only 
moves because it is extreme torture, nor does it learn a 
colt what is wanted of him. . My experience on horses 
for th(' pa.st twenty years has been the; meaJis of my 
bringing out a system to be used l)y all in breaking 
colts. Some of the Spanish ranchc men know the pow- 
er they have over a horse when they can lasso him by 
the fore leg — with what ease they Ciin hold the most 
I)owerful wild horse. Most severely h.as my patience 
been tried, when I have attempted to lead a colt across 
a !,>ridge, or into a barn, or tried to lead him while rid- 
ing nnothcr horse. I can obviate all these difficulties 
simply by a means I have of compelling a horse to go. 
If you wish to ride a horse and lead a colt, !>uekle a 
strap around the fore leg of the colt above the knee; 
hitch a rope or strap to it, and the other end around the 
horse's neck, leaving the loop as large as the collar should 
be. Have the strap between the horses long enough for 
the colt to travel when he comes up even with the horse. 
Fasten a strap to the colt'.s bit and to the girt of your 
horse, so he can not get too far ahead. Take your horse 
by the head and turn him around a few times until the 



18 SCIENCE OF HOUSE TRAINING. 

colt finds he has to step. Then mount your horse and 
swing around towards the colt, and then start him off, 
and you will have no further trouble. When you first 
hitch a colt to a loaded wagon, fasten the strap from his 
leg to the breast-ring of the other horse, which should 
be a gentle, well broken one. Start your team by turning 
from the colt ; start the load by a stay chain on the 
broken horse's end of the evener. As soon as the colt 
has taken a few steps, say " Whoa," stopping him. Ca- 
ress him and let him have time to think, as it were. 
Start him by a word given to the other horse, and do 
not frigliteu him Ijy a display of the whip but keep 
that still. Walk him along as gently as possible, but 
if he begins to prance, or plunge, or exhibit any signs 
of fear, stop him instantly and let him know that he 
must go quiet. The lead-strap on his leg will compel 
him to go if he should hang back or refuse to step, and 
will also prevent him from swinging away from his 
mate. When you have your team started, get into the 
wagon and drive about as you please. The Iiorse will 
always be able to draw the colt along if he attempts to 
stop, for he can not brace buck enough to stop the 
horse, and soon he will learn that it is useless to make 
any such attempts. If he shows any signs of kicking 
put the guard upon his outside legs and he will soon 
give that up, too. The guard will also learn him to 
stand when stopped. Care should be taken to uncheck 
the colt when you stop him so that he may rest easy. 

CAUTION. 

I would say here that in hitching up a team which 
is uneasy and will not stand still, fasten the neck-yoke 
to the pole of the wagon, or sleigh, with a strong strap 
so they can not start ahead after you have hitched one 
tug, letting the tongue fall and frightening themselves. 
While hitching a colt onto a wagon, he will very often 
swing around away from the pole. In such a case I fast- 
en a strap into the end of the tug. Standing on the op- 
posite side, raise the tug above the gambrel and pull 



SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 19 

him toward the pole, and say, "Stand in," as you pull 
hira in. Hitch the outside tug first, so he can not 
swing out while you are hitching the remaining 
tug. 

TO LEARN A COLT TO BACK 

is a very easy matter if you know how' to doit. But 
very few horses will hack without the aid of the lines. 
No one can learn a horse to back by jerking on the bits. 
A very common way to learn a colt to back is to get 
him on a sidehill and jerk the bits, letting the load pull 
him back. Some say that you must press tlie hand against 
the front part of the arm, but this is useless, as it 
simply hurts the colt and does not show him what is re- 
quired. I never spend more than twenty minutes, on an 
average, in learning a colt to back. With only the jjres- 
sure of my finger on the bit, or rein, I can make any 
horse liack, which I never saw any one else do. I do 
not wish it understood that other men c^n not break a 
colt as well as myself, for we have a great many good 
horsemen in the country, who will teach a horse almost 
any thing desired, but I wish the public to understand 
that my treatment does not liurt a colt, and he will 
learn what is wanted of him in one quarter of the time 
it will take him to learn the same by the treatment he 
will receive from other meji who liave written about, or 
taught in public how to train colts, or drive liorses. 

To show a colt how to back, and to compel him to do 
so, place a strap, or rope, around the front pastern, hav- 
ing it long enough to enal>le you to stand behind the 
colt. Take the lilies in one hand, and witli the other 
grasp the rope. Pull his foot back under him which 
will cause liim to take a step backward, as it throws 
him oft* his balance, and he can not step forward. As 
he begins to move backward pull lightly on the reins, 
Make him step a few steps backward, and then start 
him ahead as far as he went back. Tell him to back, 
calling his name, and if he does not step back readily, 
pull his foot back with a strong pull. Keep him at 



210 SCIENCE OF lioRSE TRAINING. 

this until he backs at the word. It is better to havf 
a well broken horse with him when learning to back !)o 
fore a wagon. Care should be taken when your colt is 
learning to back, tiiat he does not back too far, nor toi> 
fast. A colt should not move a distance exceeding his 
own length at the word " Back." If he backs too fast, 
touch him with the whip, or let your other horse stop 
him, if hitched before a wagon. I have known men to 
spend boors trying to back a sullen colt out of a narrow 
stall. They would coax, jerk with a cord attached to 
the under jaw, whip over the head and shoulders, and 
try to push him oat by main f )rce, but all to no pur- 
pose ; they could not conspel him to back out. if a 
boy ten years old should put a strap on his fore log he 
could pull him out, by drawing tlje strap across the 
edge of the stall for a purchase. 

TO l.EAKN A COI/r TO GO STEADY, 

he should be learned to walk with a loose rein, which 
is a difficult thing to do with a high spirited animal. 
But there is no horse in existence tlvat ctii not !»e learn- 
ed to do this with proper treatment. I once found a 
horse that would prance from nu)rning till night, Ijoth 
before a loaded and an empty wagon and he 
could not be induced to sober down to a walk, al- 
though frequently covered Avith sweat and foam. I 
tried my method, and learned him to walk in less than 
a half day. I place the guard on, one end running back to 
the carriage. When the horse starts to trot, or prance, 
I speak to him, saying, "Whaa," and draw him up so 
he can not take a jjrancing step. If he gets very nerv- 
ous I pull on the guard and stop him until he gets qui 
et. Start him gently ; if he goes quiet, with the reiu 
loose, I stop and caress him. Let him know that it is 
what you want of hira. After he gives up prar.cing, 
when you say "Whaa," unhitch him and let him rest, as 
some horses fret only when they are tired. One import 
ant thing you should learn is the difference between 
"Whoa," and "Whaa." The former means to stop and 



SCIENCE OF HORSE TnAINIKG 21 

stiind ; the latter, to go steadily. Some men say 
■* Wh-o-o-o-o" for the latter, arid"Wlioa," when they 
d(!sire the horse to stop, not making difterenee enough 
between the two words to make it jjerceptible to tlic 
colt, and then because he does not readily obey he is 
severely dealt with. I do not believe in tlie frequent 
use of the whip, yet all colts should not be handled 
alike. A sullen, stubborn colt should sometimes have 
a good sharp cut with the wiiip, but a severe whipping 
would make, him more stubborn, and even vicious. If 
a eolt is very sullen, and it is mo.st apt to be the case 
while learning to back, the best way to remedy it is to 
allow him to stand a while and then work upon hira 
again, I have worked with eolts until they were very 
warm and tired, so they wouhl neither rein nor baek, 
nor auythiiig else I wished, withcnit using means to 
compel them ; but aft(;r putting on the guard and letting 
them rest for half an hour, or uiore, they would 
obey without any trouble. There is little use in trying 
to learn a colt anything when he is tired. You mu.st 
have patience if you would have kind and obedient 
liorses, as a great many colts are spoiled by not takiirg 
time enough to break them. I repeat what I have al- 
ready said, exercise patience, and perseverance, and 
keep your temper, foi*' the colt has enough to do to un- 
derstand what you want of him, and is frightened 
eiuHigh with the jjroeeediiigs and strange objects around 
him, without your frightening him .still more l)y your 
irritating voice and manners. Besides, when you are 
angry you can not use proper judgment in handling a 
liorse. You will blanie him for wh.at you are yoursi^lf 
to blame. If you undertake to make a horse do a 
thing, tirst sIk^v him how, and then persevere until you 
accomplish the task, for if the horse beats you once he 
will try uiuch harder to do so again, 

TO PKEVENT A HORSE PROM CARRVINO lltS HEAD TO 
ONE SIDE. 

To prevent this bad and unsightly practice on the 



20 SCIENCE OF HOUSE TKAINIKO. 

part of the horse while V>ein<r driven, has Ixcn the 
study of many horsemen. The ])eanty of many a 
matched team is marred by one or Ijoth of them carry- 
ing his head to one side. Few men know how to pr<;- 
Tent it. Many, while ph)wing, have a peg, or l>rad fast- 
ened to the ojjposite horse, in such a manner that it 
will goad the side of the crowding horse, but this gets 
the team in the habit of kicking, oftener than it cures 
them of the other hal)it. Some farmers pay 'large sun«s 
to jockeys to train tlieir carriage horses because they do 
not know how to do it themselves. I have known large 
sums to t>e offered l)y men who drove the l)est l»looded 
horses to have them taught to carry their heads straight 
with their bodies. They ]>ut on. tlie Ijitting harness, 
draw their heads up and draw them down, pull up thr 
side braces, but all to no pui'pose ; they are tlie same 
still. They want their horses to spread on the carriage, 
and w-ant the nigh horse to keep iar enough away from 
the offone so the plow Avill run well to land, wlule plow- 
ing but know of no Avay to liring around the desired re- 
sults. I will try to ex]>lain how I prevent this disagree- 
able habit, for I can call it nothing but a habit. Take 
a hickory stick, or one of some other tough timber, 
about three-fourths of an inch thick, having a knob on 
one end, or a pin through one end will do, so it will 
not draw through the turret-ring on the back-pad. 
Pass the stick through the ring from tlie back side, 
through the ring on the hame, and tie it to the bit on 
the off side, if it is the nigh horse that crowds, and to 
the nigh side if it is tlu' off horse. A horse will 
not crowd unless he turns his head to one side, and this 
l)race prevents him from doing this. If your horses do 
not go far enough apart, you can make them do so by 
putting one of these Vjraces on the inside of each horse, 
and make your inside lines long enough to let them 
spread apart. It will not prevent them from turning 
their heads in an opposite direction, as tiie brace wall 
slide through the rings and allow them to turn easily. 



SCIENCE .OF HORSE TRAINING. 33 

TliP end that comes next to the bit should be light 
ciunigh to spring a little, as it will make it more endur- 
able tor the horse. It is a very good plan to put one of 
tliese braces on a colt while learning him to drive sin- 
gle, as it keeps his head straight with his body, and is 
far better than to tear his mouth with the bitting har- 
ness, such as is used by a majority of people in break- 
ing horses. Such harness should be banished to the 
barn garret, or some other place where they can not be 
used in tonuenting a colt, and a more humau« course of 
treatment sliould take its place. 

TO BRIDLE X COLT 

which tries to strike, rear, or throw himself back when 
you touch his mouth. Some colts, and even old horses 
have these faults. They can be easily broken up if you 
deal mildly with the horso. By fastening him in the 
same manniT as you would a horse that pulls at the halt- 
ter, that is, pass the halter through the hitching ring 
and fasten it to the fore leg, above the knee, short 
enough to keep him close to the manger, which pre- 
vents him from holding his head too high, and he can 
not strike nor crowd j'ou against the stall. To hold the 
horses head around toward you while putting in the 
bit.s, rub the palm of the hand down the side of the 
colt's head until you can get the ends of your fingers 
between his lips, in the corner of the mouth. Then 
press the thuml) against the outside, and the fingers weW 
up inside. Be careful not to get your fingers betw^een 
the animal's teeth. With this hold upon a horse you 
can bring his head toward you and open his mouth at 
the same time by spreading the two fingers in his mouth. 
Use the left hand when on the nigh side, putting the 
V)ridle on with the other, by crossing it above the left. This 
is the easiest way of putting the bits into a colt's 
mouth. Say, "Take in," when you open his mouth, and 
be will soon learn to do it by speaking to him or touch- 
ing the bits to his lijis. If a boy wishes to bridle a 



34 8cie:^ce of. horse training. 

high-headed horse he can make him hohl down by tak- 
ing a turn arovuid beh)w the knee and drawing his head 
down in tliis way. 

TO WOKK AN OLD, BAtTT.KY HORSE DOUBLE, 

put the lead-strap from his knee to the breast-ring of the 
other horse. If single, start him by a sharp })ull on 
the fore leg. You can have one thill spliced three fec't 
beyond the horse, with a ring or ])alley attached to the 
end, ruiiningthe rope frmn his leg tlirougli tlie ring, or 
pulley; then you can pull him ahead from the cart or 
wagon. Be quiet with him, as it is nervousness, and 
a lack of understandirg yi>u, that makes him baulk, or 
he has been learned to baulk while being i)roken, or hurt 
by a poor collar, or a sore breast. 

TO DRIVE A KICKING HORSE 

in shafts before a carriage. If you can not get one of 
my bits you can put on a common over-draw rein, which 
is known as the Kimball Jackson chetrk, as Hiram 
WoodruiT drove a horse owned by Jackson since I in- 
vented it for my own use. It consists of a strap running 
frojn the bits, on each side of the nose, over the top of 
the head, and down to the cheek-hook, having a strap 
running from the overdraw, along tlie back, through a 
ring fastened to the top of the crupper ar.d l)ranching 
off to each end of the cross-bar of the thills; draw it 
tight enough to keep your horse's head u]) high as lie 
ought to carry it. This over-draw, running fnun the 
bit over the top of the head, to the cross-bar, and fast- 
ened, he can not kick, as that would throw up his head 
by the upper jaw. 

SHYING HORSES. 

A few remarks about driving skittish horses may not 
be out of place here. Some horses shy from imperfect 
vision, caused by wearing blinds, or blinkers, which have 
injured the sight to a great extent. Oth(;rs from ex- 
treme timidity, more apparent in some horses than in 
others ; others by driving them with a horse that is in 



SCIENCE OF HOUSE TRAINING. 25 

tlic habit of shying at every object along the roadside, 
an a horse soon learns this habit from a mate. Often we 
are told by persons avIio write on the subject, if a 
horse shies to make him go up to the frightening object, 
and that he should touch it, or smell of it. This may 
do in some cases, but as a general thing I consider it 
entirely wrong. It will but confirm the hal>it. You 
siiould make your horse understajid that you are master, 
and that he must obey you at alt times; that he must 
go where you direct ; that he must not be on the watch 
for something frightful. If he sees anything at which 
to shy, he will turn iiis head towanls it, when you 
should give the o})posite rein a sharp pull, which will 
attract his attention from the object, and prevent him 
frcmi turning out of the track. Your voice should nev- 
er .shoAv fear, nor irrital)ility, but should he firm and de- 
cisive. Always carry a good whip with such horses 
and if they do not come to the rein, give them a sharp 
cut with it (m the side opposite the oI)ject. The bit I use 
throws the horse's head up so his attention is attracted 
from .small objects by the use of it. Some horses shy 
only from want of exercise, and will n(.t after having 
bee n driven a short time. A good cut with the whip 
will, in this case, be of more service than anything else. 
A horse should learn that he should not play wliile in 
the harneas. If he is allowed to do so he is unsafe to 
drive, by any but experienced horsemen. A boy or wo- 
man can not drive him, for it reipiiresa strong arm to 
control a playing horse, and lie knows whether such 
have hold of the reins, and will ever take advantage un- 
less well broken. 

TO S.MIDI/E A C(»LT. 

Some colts will liecome accustomed to the use of the 
.saddle readily, and with comparatively little trouble to 
the trainer, while others are very troul)lesome and re- 
quire a vast amount of handling. In such cases, have 
the guard put on and held so that the colt can not get 



26 SCIENCE OF nORSE TRAINING. 

away. Take the .saddle in your hand, let him smell of 
it, rub him with it along the sides, until he will stand' 
to have it tossed upon his back. Draw the girt up a lit- 
tle at a time until he will let you draw it no tight 
without flinching. Now draw the guard up short, take 
the reins i)i;tweeii your thumb and finger, drawing the 
off rein abt)ut six inches -.shorter than the other, which 
will. make him turn his head from you, so he can not 
start ahead. When you raise yourself into the saddle 
or .stirrup, if he tries to start, pull his head around to 
his .shf)uldcr, aad step down on the ground until he gets 
quiet, and ag.ain raise yourself in the stirup, until he 
will allow you to put your knee over his back. If he 
.starts, pull his head around quick, and he will not move 
much. Let him feel your whole weight in the saddle, 
and with some colt'^ you will h;ive little more trouble, 
while others are still not broken. With such, lengthen 
out the guard aid hitch him to a well broken horse, by 
the leg, as you would to lead a colt ar.d ride a horse, as 
spoken of before. 1 generally take him away from 
home, riding the broken horse and leading the colt by 
his side until he becomes accustomed to seeing a person 
above him while in motion. Ride four or five miles out 
on a walk, if necessary. Remove the guard as soon as 
he gets so he will go quiet at your side, and will let 
your foot touch him without flinching. When you start 
])ack place tln" guard on again, and mount him. While 
he is fast to the other horse, and the guard is on, he can 
not run, rear ncu' plunge about, the guard preventing 
that, and the other horse making him go. 

One of my ovcr-dr.aw safety-reins is the best to ride 
a colt or horse with, as it makes him carry a graceful 
head and neck. 

After you have ridden the colt half a mile, or such a 
matter, dismount and take the guard off to let your colt 
rest a few moments. Mount again without replacing 
the guard. After he gets to going quietly, have some 
cue ride the broke horse and take them apart. Watch 



KCIEN'CE O't' IlORSti TRAIMKQ. 1^7 

your colt closely, and if he gets friglitened and tries to 
jump, or ruii,4)ull his head around to one side quick, 
and hold it there until he gives up. If he tries to go 
in a diflferent direction fri.ui what you wish, and will 
not follow the rein, pull his head around sideways so 
he can iiot step to one side. When he gets his head 
turned the way you want him to go, let the rein loose 
until he gets started. The best way is to ride hinv two 
or three times in company with the horse you broke him 
witii, and if he gets restive or unmanagable, put the 
lead-straps on again. 

TO SHOK A KICKING HOKSE. 

Place the guard on. If you are alone you should han' 
die the foot and make him stand on three legs, by pull- 
ing the h-ind leg up to the fore knee. You can take 
hold of the rope that is fastened to the Iiind leg, with 
f)ue hand, and hold the rope after it is passed through 
the ring on the tore leg ; raise the hind foot a few tinns 
!)y the rope. If he tries to kick you hold him by the 
other end of the rope, which you can do bj^ stef)pirig 
behind him. After he submits to have iiis foot han- 
<llcd, set the foot ujjon your knee, as you would to shoe 
it. Let the rope out so you can get the foot back far 
enough to work upon it. The rope prevents him from 
throwing his foot back of your lap. If he draws it for 
ward, tighten the rope as you come back toward his fore 
leg. Shorten the rope to clinch tlie nails. If you have 
help they can hold the rope and you can shoe the horse 
with ease. 

THE HABIT OF BITINO, 

is one of the worst that a horse can have. No one ia 
safe around him. A person can guard against a horse 
that strikes by 'keeping to one side, can dodge his 
heels, but if he is inclined to bite, he will get hold of 
you in spite of all you can do. You may whip him un- 
til he trembles from head to foot with fear of you, and 
he will turn around and nip you as soon as you turn 



28 6C1ENCK OF HORSE TRAIRIKO. 

your back toward him. Many horses, and especially 
Ktallions, can not be led without the aid»ot" a long bar, 
attached to their bits, to keep them from turning and 
biting their leader. In some horses the hal>it of bitiiig 
amounts almost to a species of madness, or insanity. I 
have overcome this great impediment to the agreeable- 
ness of taking care of horses, by a very simple means, 
after trying and exhausting every other method I eould 
hear of. By learning the horse that his head or nose 
goes into the air when you cry "Take care," with per- 
severance you can break up the habit. My plan is this: 
Stand in front or to one side of the horse and prevent 
him from biting yon, procuring first a small Idt made to 
fit the roof of tiu' Uioutli. (N. B. — I always keep them 
on hand.) Put on an over-draw check, passing the over- 
draw through a loop fastened on the top of the halter, 
with the bit in the mouth. Let the bit be fastened .so 
there will be no danger of its dropping from the mouth. 
This bit will not prevent the horse from eating or 
drinking. Next, put on a surcingle, with a ring on tlu; 
toj) of the back Pass the end of the over-draw 
through this ring and let it hang down by his side, hav- 
ing it long enough to permit his nose to reach the floor. 
Have a leather on the end of the strap so it will not 
drop from the ring on the surcingle. As you come up 
to the side of the horse, take hold of the strap, if the 
horse snaps at you or lears give the strajj a sharp pull, 
and cry, "Take care!" You can draw his head up so it 
will be impossible for him to bite. It is something he 
does not understand but he will soon learn its object. 
The worst biting horse can be lead by passing the end 
of the lead-rein through the ring of the bit and fasten- 
ing it to the end of the over-draw, after the latter ha» 
been passed through the ring on the back. 

TO THROW A HOUSE. 

As this is very often necessary in surgical operations 
I will give the easiest way of doing it — one in which 



SCIENCE OP HOUSE TRAINING. 29 

no risk will he run of injuring the horse, as is very 
frequently done by Harey's plan, as well as by other 
methods. I throw a horse in the same manner in which 
he lies down of his own accord. If a horse wishes to 
lie on his left side, he steps his left hind foot forward, 
and toward the right fore foot, and then drops on his 
knees and is down. To force ahorse down, place a rope 
or strap around the neck where the collar comes, loose 
enough so it will not choke the horse, run the end be- 
tAveen the fore legs, through a ring fastened to the left 
hind pastern; from there to one around the right fore 
pastern, and the end over the back. Now strap up the 
nigh fore foot and take hold of the rope with one hand 
and pull on it, which will l)ringhim on his knees, and 
draw his hind foot urder him, which prevents him from 
rearing, as he will when thrown by Karey's method, or 
the more inhuman way of pulling the animal's head 
around to its shoulder by a cord attached to the under 
jaw, which strains his neck and throws him very vio- 
lently some times. By my method, a colt unless he is 
very hard to handle, can be made to lie down in a double 
Ntall without danger of hurting him. 



KEMARKS OK CASTRATINa 



INHERE are differences of opinion as to the mode and 
time of castrating. I buve traveled through tlie coun 
try for the last tliirteen years and njade a business of 
castrating, and I find, by experience, and eh)so oI>serva 
tion, tliat the most approved method is that of chinip' 
ing, or using two pieces of timber to fasten the cord. 
The best time is at tlie age of one, as a colt operated on 
at that time makes the most perfect horse, yet, there is 
no danger in castrating the animal at any age provided 
his blood is pure, and care is taken not to give him 
too much pain. The only danger is in drawing his feet 
from under him by means of a rope around the pasterns 
■which brings all the strain (mthe loins. The operation 
of castrating should be performed by competent hands, 
after which the person who takes oif the clamps 
should pass his fingers around the cord and loosen it 
from the membrane to which it sometimes adheres, and 
it will readily draw up, unless it has been strained to in- 
jure its elasticity, and in such cases it will be necessary 
to apply some powerful medicine, such as the Black 
Oil recommended in this work, which will take it back 
to its place. 

There are but few persons who know how to stop the 
blood where a horse is castrated, if he gets to bleeding 
from any cause. Sometimes the veins on the cord get 
ruptured, and sometimes the cord itself gets torn, and 
1 have known many instances in which colts have bled 



VvEMAKKS ON CASTRATING. 81 

to (l(^•\th, liocraiso tboir ownors were ignorant of a meth- 
od .-)f .stopping th( in from l)}ecding. This may be done 
by any one in a f(!\v nionients by putting on the guard 
to hold the coJt still, with raw cotton batting. Crowd 
tli(! cotton into the cut around the cord, and draw the 
outside skin tight over it, putting on a clamp to lioid 
the edges together. Let it remain on from twenty-four 
to forty-eight iiours, acco'-ding to the age of the horse. 
If the l)lood rUi.s up, causing it to swell much, rub it 
with eamphejie liniment — a liniu)cnt every horse owner 
should have V)y him. I give a recipe for its maiuifacture 
in tliis book. If the cord bleeds when the cotton is re- 
moved, try and take up the vein ; if you can not do it, 
put more cotton in and go after some one wlio can. 
I n(>ver knew a case which could not Ije stopped by one 
application of the cotton, or needed any further care af- 
ter it was removed. The parts should be washed with 
.sour nnlk before the rianoval of the cotton. Care must 
nhvays betaken to keep the cord loose from the skin, as 
it must not be allowed to grow fa.st. This has l)een 
neglected I>y miiny horse raisers, on account of the trou- 
ble encountered in handling the colt without throwing 
him, Imt my invention of the "Guard" will do away 
v/ith that inconvenience, as any one can cut of the 
clamps by cutting the strings on eacli end and prying 
the sticks apart. Be careful in taking olT the clamps 
not to pull down on tlie cord, as it is apt to hang down 
if pulled when it is sore. 

Any one desiring the services of tlie author of this 
work, may address him at his residence, at Berlin, 
Green Lake couiity, Wisconsin, stating their place of 
residence. He will come, for the sum of ten dollars, to 
any place within fifty miles, to castrate, where there are 
ten colts at one phice. My method of casting is ex- 
pliiined in this work, rolling the colt on his back to 
su])port his loins, to castrate. 

if my direct-ions are strictly followed after castrating, 
• I warrant the doiiig well of each colt. 



HINTS ON BREAKING STEERS. 



Place them in a small inclosure from whicli they 
can not escape. Procure a half-inch rope twenty feet 
long and make a running noose at one end of it. Lay 
it in one corner of the yard and drive your steers over 
it until one of them steps his nigli fore foot into it ; 
then jerk it up around the leg, below the knee. After 
you catch the animal, if he is vicious, you can stand on 
the fence, or outside the yard and hold the rope until 
lie gives up, or lead him up to a post and get liis mate 
beside him. But if not vicious, get into the yard with 
a good bow whip and follow him around a few times, 
holding him back so that he can not go faster than a 
walk. After he goes quiet, come up to his side, within 
reach of his nose, and say, "Whoa," and stroke him 
lightly on the nose, at the same time pulling on the rope 
attached to his leg, standing as near behind him as your 
whip will admit of When he becomes quiet go up to 
his shoulder and pat him on the side If he starts away 
touch him on the nose and draw him up with the rojie 
as before. Use the whip as little as possible and make 
him mind. After your subject will stand to be caressed 
start him ahead by a light blow with the whip around 
the iianks. Let him walk around the yard a few times, 
turning him to the left. When you turn him touch him 



HIKTS ON BREAKING STEERS 33 

lightly with the whip on the near shoulder, whicli will 
learn him to turn toward the whip. If he refuses to 
turn toward you, you have the power to compel him to 
do so by pulling his leg sideways. When you touch 
him with the whip keep him turning toward the left 
and say, "Haw," not "Whoa," until he learns that 
•' Haw" means to turn to the left, and "Wlioa," means 
to stop and stand still. When he learns to stop readily 
at the word " Whoa," and to turn readily to the left at 
the word " Haw," place the rope on the off fore leg arid 
go through the same process, saying "Gee," when you 
Turn him to the right. Always touch the ahimal on the 
shoulder on the same side as the direction you wish him 
to tui-n. After you have learned him to turn readily 
Avith the rope, lay it over his back and make him go 
through the exercise with the whip alone. If he gets 
unruly, or ol^stinate you can catch the rope and jerk him 
up. Now hang a bow upon his neck and drive him 
with it on ; then hang a cliaiu on and let the ends drag. 
You should also learn him to stand around when you 
have the rojie on by stepping around behind him and 
drawing the rope around his gambrels j nd pulling him 
sideways, as by standing on the off side, with the rope 
fa.stened to the nigh fore leg, drawing across the hind 
leg. Learn him to back by drop23ing the rope close to 
his foot, standing behind and pulling his foot under 
him, and giving him a light stroke across the upper 
part of fore leg, saying, "Back," which will soon learn 
him to back readily at that word. Drive the animal 
out of the yard, place hjm by himself, and put a guard 
on him in the same manner as you would on a horse, 
making it rather short. Caress, and give him some- 
thing to eat, and allow him to rest a little while, first 
putting on and taking off the yoke a few times. Train 
the animal intended for the off side first. Now get the 
nigh one in the yard and go through the same exercises 
as with the first. W^hen that one is well tamed, length- 
en the guard on the off animal and drive him into the 



34 HINTS ON BKEAKING STEERS. 

yard again. Then shorten the guard so he can not step 
and pnt the yoke on. Let tlie end rest on the ground. 
Walk around him and earess him while in this position. 
The guard will prevei.t liim from whirling around with 
the yoke, as they will .sometimes do, if no precaution is 
taken against it. After the off ox will submit to have 
the end of the yoke held up and dropp<d. bring the 
near ox up beside him and yoke them together. The 
best way to learn an ox to come under the yoke is to 
place your off ox three or four feet from a post, tie a 
rope to one end of the yoke and to the post, and then 
elevate the other end of the yoke so the nigh ox can 
come under it. Stop him when under the yoke, and 
put the bow in and caress him. Place a guard on the 
nigh ox after you have them yoked, and let them ryst a 
while, after which train the pair as you woukl one ox, 
taking off the guard and using the rope, on the nigh fore 
leg otf the nigh ox when learning them to haw, and on 
the oif ox when learning them to gee. When you want 
them to haw, touch the nigli one on the four shoulder, 
and the off one the .same. Caress more than you whip. 
Load lightly at first. Pay attention where you strike. 
Speak your words plainly and do not mix them up, thus 
for instance : "Whoa, back, hush, haw," as we very oft- 
en heur, when some men are driving cattle. Learn your 
cattle to Ijack by showing them how. When you stop 
and want to leave your cattle put a guard on each one. 

When you wish to unyoke oxen, start them forward 
always calling by name the ox yon wi.-^h to move. 

Learn this method and practice it and you will have 
kind oxen 



DONALD'S PRACTICAL RECIPES. 



TO TEl.Iv A riOIlSi: S AGE. 

After horses are five years old they liave a ring 
around the tail near the u])per part of it, and every five 
years after a similar one appears. 

DISTEMPER. 

Take sulphur halfoz., a.saf(etida, liipiorice powdered, 
Venice Turpentine one oz. Mi.K, ami divide into four 
doses in four succeeding nights. To relieve the throat 
rub it with the cainpheiie liniment. 

HOTS. 

To cure a horse attacked with bots, wash four quarts 
raw potatoes and mash them fine, add a little water and 
drench it down him. A bot will die in from two to five 
seconds, placed on a raw potato. 

DISEASES OF THE KIDNEYS. 

Give catechu one oz., uva ursi powdered one half oz., 
opium powdered, half drachm ; rub thoroughly with 
campheue liniment over the kidneys. 

CAMPHENE LINIMENT. 

Take of hartshorn one and a half ounces, camphor 



36 conald's practical recipes. 

one oz., spirits of turpentine two oz., sweet oil three oz., 
alchohol four oz. Slmke before using. 

POLI>-EVIL. 

Take garden rue one pound, and a half a pound of 
lard ; simmer tog-ether, strain and cool. Put one table- 
spoonful in each ear of a horse for six days, until the 
sore is loosened ; tlien dress with green ointment. 



FISTULA. 

After the pipe is formed insert a needle at the top and 
ran it out at the bottom, and draw or* pour through, 
while warm the green ointment. 

BOG OR BLOOD SPAVIN. 

Saturate a woolen cloth with the Indian liniment and 
bind around the joint ; rub hard with the hand eye i y 
day. 

SPLINTS. — RINGBONE SPAVINS. 

Two oz. each of oil of spike, oil organum, British oil, 
oil smoke and oil of amber. Mix well together, bathe 
and heat in. 



WINDGALLS. 

Take a piece of leather, drive it full of tacks one 
fourth of an inch apart, nail the heads on a piece of 
wood, make the horse bear his weight on it, drive the 
nail8 into the puff, bandage it with linen rags dipped in 
camphene liniment. 

CONDITION POWDERS. 

One pound comfrey root, half pound antimony, half 
pound sulphur, three ounces salti^etre, half pound laurel 
berries, half pound juniper berries, half pound anise 
seed, half pound rosin, three ounces alum, half pound 
copperas, half pound masterwort, half pound gun pow- 
der. Mix all to powder, feed once a day, keej) the 



Donald's practical recipes. 37 

horse dry, a.id from cold water for six hours after using 
it. 

SADDLE, OR COLLAR LINIMENT. 

Spirits of turi^entine half oz., oil of spike half oz., 
eastilc soap half oz., gum camphor half oz., sulphur eth- 
er half oz., ess. wormwood half oz., alchohol half pint. 
Wash freely. 

STIFLE SPRAINS. 

Boil half a bushel of white oak bark, add half a 
])ound of alum, when cold add the whites of a dozen 
eggs and a handful of salt. Bathe well. 

FLATULENT COLIC. 

Give soap and new milk. 

TO TAKE A FILM FROM THE EYE. 

Take sugar and salt in equal parts; pulverize tine and 
blow in the eye, and melt fresh butter and put in the 



LAMPASS. 

Prick with a sharp knife until they bleed. 

SCRATCHES. 

Give the horse sassafras tea with a little saltpetre, and 
dress with green ointment. 

FOUNDER OR STIFFS. 

Bleed in the cornet ring with a small fleam half an 
inch above the hoof, the vein will be found from three 
to five inches from the point of the heel cord as in any 
other vein. Take one quart of blood from each foot 
and tie human manure on the bit, to be changed as oft- 
en as the horse gets it off for twenty-four hours. 

TO STOP BLEEDING. 

Where the bleeding part can not be tied up, burnt 



38 Donald's pkacticai. recipe*;. 

copperas finely pulverized should be I>>un(l oit')it.. 

GREEN OINTMENT. 

For the cure of burns, w ounds and old sores, on man 
or beast, this ointment will effect more cures than any 
other. Care must be taken not to let it burn wliile 
making. Rosin two oz., beeswax two oz., white pine 
pitch four oz. ; melt them and add half a pound of lard, 
and half oz. finely ground verdigris. 

TO CURE SCAI.D HEAD ON CHILDREN. 

To be rubbed on once a day until cured : One pound 
fresh butter, heat hot, add two ounces burgundy pitch, 
two oz. spirits turpentine. Simmer all together, and 
when cool, add of red precipitate one oz., golden litli- 
arge one oz. 

TO CURE SWEENY IN HORSES. 

When first done, take one pound smoked bacon chop- 
ped fine, the whites of four eggs, three tablespoonsfal 
of salt; heat so as to melt the grease. Rul) on when 
the disease is of long standing, so as to shrink the 
shoulder. Cut a slit ia the skia at tlie top of the shrunk 
flesh, so as to put in a tablespoonful of salt. Let it re- 
main ten days; then insert a seton at the bottom: as 
soon as it discharges, cut it. Cure effectual. 

TO CURE CORNS ON HORSES. 

Pare the hoof until you can see the corn, which is of a 
reddish color. Put on spirits of salts, and dress with 
green ointment. 

Wood ashes, and common salt wet with water, will 
stop cracks in stoves. 

TO GET RID OF RED ANTS, 

Sprinkle the place they infest with ground coffee. 



Donald's practical recipes. 39 

to get rid of rats. 
Put nitric acid in the holts through whi(h they pass 
in and out. 

TO PRESERVE FENCE POSTS. 

Dip the end you insert in the ground, in a solution of 
IjIuc vitriol. 

TO PRESERVE POTATOES. 

Tiike thcisethat are sound and kiln dry th(m and put 
in a dry place. 

Scotch snufi' put in the hole "where crickets come out 
will destroy them. 

TO CUKE CHILBLAINS. 

Rubwitli green ointment. 

TO CURE BURNS AND SCALDS. 

Wrap uj) the part i)urned iji green ointment si)read 
on linen cloth.s. 

TO CURE CURBS ON HORSES. 

The Indian liniment should be used heating it in. 

BLACK OIL. 

For the cure of old sores, proudflesh and sjjrains. 
Two oz. oil of vitriol, one gill spirits of turpentine, one 
l^int winter strained oil, one beeves' gall. Putinto a 
thick glass bottle. 

TO CURE THE AGUE FEVER. 

Take one pill of tar every night until cured. 

INDIAN LINIMENT. 

Cures rheumatism, sj^rains, numbness, headache and. 
toothache. Two ozs. spirits heartshorn, one oz camphor 
gum, one oz. oil spike, one oz. organum, one oz. amber, 



40 Donald's practical recipes. 

one oz oil peppermint, one oz. British oil, one oz. beeves' 
gall, one quart alchohol. Shake together and warm by 
the fire twelve hours, in a stone jug. 

FEVER AND AGUE. 

Quinine thirty grains, prussiate of iron and sulphate 
of iron eight grains, cayenne pepper sixty grains ; mix 
well. Divide tlie above into si.\ doses, and give 
one powder every three hours until four are taken, 
then give one the next morning. In all cases give of 
the bitters, after the powders are taken, a teaspoonful 
three times a day. 

To make^the bitters, take twelve grains alloes, fifteen 
grains quinine, prussiate of iron four grains, cayenne 
pepper thirty grains. Put into a pint of brandy and 
shake well. 

cough syrup. 
One oz. sweet spirits nitre, one oz. elixer of vitriol, 
one oz.laudnum, half pound clarified honey. Take a 
teaspoonful three times a day. 

TO REPAIR BROKEN GLASS. 

Dissolve isinglass in gin ; make the broken parts 
warm ; dip theiu in the liquid and tie them up for some 
time. 

Good, fresh yeast is a sovereign remedy when taken 
internally, for putrid sore throat, scarlet fever and dip- 
theria. 



TO cure cancer. 
Take a quantity of red oak bark and burn to ashes, to 
this add water, and boil to the consistency of molasses. 
Apply to the part affected and leave on for an hour. 
Afterward cover the plaster with tar ; remove in a few 
days. If protuberances appear on the wound apply the 



Donald's practical rkcipks. 41 

plaster and tar alternatfly until they all disappear, af- 
ter which apply any healing- salve. 

BKK STIN<!. 

Bind on salt moistened. 

NOSE BLEKDING. 

Roll up a piece of paper and press under the upper 
lip, and cord one arm. 

FOR BURNS. 

Apply the wliite of an egg. 

CERTAIN CURE FOR HEADACHE. 

To be applied as any other lotion. Opodeldoc, spir- 
its of wine, and salmoniac, in equal parts. 

CHOLERA MOIUUS. 

Take a ciiicken just killed and boil in three quarts of 
water, and drink freely of the broth. 

CiMl.TICE FOR A FESTER. 

Boil bread in strong beer and poultice with it. 

FOR COTfillS. 

A tablespoonful of mohisses, two teaspoonsful castor 
oil, one teaspoonful of paregoric. Dose, half a tea- 
spoonful. 

TO RESTORE GREY HAIR. 

Lac sulphur one drachm, sugar of lead half drachm, 
rose water four oz. Mix. 

CURE FOR INFLAMATORY RHEUMATISM. 

Half OZ. pulverized saltpetre put into a half pint of 
sweet oil. Bath the i)arts affected. 

LIQUID GLUE. 

Gum arable two oz., boiling water one pint ; dissolve 
and add of spirits ten oz. 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Introduction. 5 

To Get a Colt into a Barn, 10 

First Process of Breaking Colts, 10 

To Learn the Colt to Stand, 13 

To Learn a Colt to Rein, 14 

To Hitch up a Colt, 16 

To Make a Horse Go, 17 

To Learn a Colt to Back, 19 

To Learn a Colt to Go Steady. 20 
To Prevent a Horse From Carrying his Head to One 

Side, ■ 21 

To Bridle a Colt, 23 

To Work an Old, Baulky Horse, 24 

To Drive a Kicking Horse, 24 

Shyinw Horses, 24 

To'Saddlea Colt, 25 

To Shoe a Kicking Horse, 27 

The Habit of Biting, 27 

To Throw a Horse. 2§ 

lleuiarks on Castrating, 30 

Hints on Breaking Steers, 33 

Practical Recipes, 35 



